The Best of Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week is widely known to be the gem of fashion month. This season did not disappoint. Blockbuster highlights included Chanel’s tribute to Karl Lagerfeld and the legendary designer’s last collection. Always a wonderland setting, this season showgoers were transported to the snowy Salzburg mountaintops ending Karl’s journey where it began, his home. In other buzzy fashion news, Hedi Slimane’s cringeworthy debut last season stirred up nostalgia for “Philophiles,” but this season rang a new tune and saw a return to Celine’s beginnings pre-Phoebe Philo. The 10 Corso Como New York team has a slew of designers, collections, and looks that we can’t stop talking about. Here are our PFW highlights:
The Balenciaga collection had us lusting after each look. The collection is chock full of sleek and edgy jackets and two piece separates in leather, patent leather, and plaid. The spectrum ranges from business wear to off-duty, chic looks and evening wear. Full of enough black looks to satisfy any New Yorker, the collection also features of-the-moment neons.
Undercover designer Jun Takahashi is well known for his love of horror movies and this fascination has trickled into his collections season after season. This collection was no exception and Takahashi drew inspiration from Italian filmmaker Luca Guadagnino’s Suspiria. The designer has a gift of making the frightening beautiful and capturing the duality of life and human nature. This season saw a slight retro flair in the collection with a kaleidoscopic hued collection full of unique mustard tones, teals, oranges and purples among others. Separates were softened with addition of tulle draping and an ‘80s checkerboard looking print added a nice juxtaposition. Overall Takahashi served up a very dreamy collection.
Comme des Garçons
Designer Rei Kawakubo presented her version of a punk inspired collection. Highlights included long sleek, close-fitting jackets, on-again culottes, and mesh layered pieces adding intrigue to the looks. Post-show Kawakubo remarked that the collection was about “finding beauty in the dark.” Leave it to Kawakubo for always finding beauty and a fresh perspective.
Designer Kei Ninomiya presented his first full-scale runway show this season, considered to be the quiet highlight of PFW. Training under Rei Kawakubo, Ninomiya is a fastly on-the-rise designer exemplified in his intricate collection. This season Ninomiya found inspiration in floral, specifically the rose, and presented a voluminous, tulle layered collection. The collection has two sides, a sheer plushy pink, and a dark black leather thorned. The collection overall was dreamy, reinforcing the fact that all eyes should be on Ninomiya.
Titling his collection Kawaii, Junya Watanabe looked to the cult cutesy girl trend popular in Japan. Full of large florals and paisley prints with bows and frills, the collection was tapered by incorporating cowboy boots, fitted denim and trench coats. The utilitarian collection provided a playful dose into the roster this season providing perfect off-duty looks.
Rick Owens served up a practical collection, if you ask us. Owens showcased sleek city looks including elegant jackets with clean lines, pieces to take you from day to night, and a collection of body hugging dresses for evening, the designer’s specialty. A more subdued color palette highlights included dusty rose, pistachio, cherry red pieces in leather and jersey, grey fur styles, and honey hued teddy coats that we wish we could swaddle ourselves in now.
John Galliano for Margiela showcased a more austere collection this season in stark contrast to the rainbow hued, made-for-instagram collections shown throughout fashion month. Taking cues from Gen Z, the collection is decidedly gender neutral and highlights include structural jackets and trench coats nipped at the waist with a belt. Galliano added contrast with pop colored giraffe printed pieces.
Launched last year, Marine Serre, known for its crescent moon prints is a buzzy, fastly emerging brand to know. Inspired this season by the post-apocalypse, Serre envisioned a new world and a new perspective to view fashion. Integral to its brand DNA, the crescent moon print is back and all encompassing, used like a blank canvas in the form of body suit and two piece separates. This season had an ‘80s flair (resurgent trend of the season) with plaid pieces, leather jackets and coats with strong, structural oversized shoulders. Flowy dresses, and neon fur adorned pieces rounded out the collection. The post-post-apocalyptic show setting gave the collection a glow-in-the-dark, radioactive appearance.
Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus has become one of the buzziest designers since his 2014 debut and has undoubtedly shaken up the industry with his whimsical, playful yet ironic designs. This season proved no different and the beloved Jacquemus small bag is back and tinier than ever. We’re loving Jacquemus’ bold color palette consisting of pops of neon pink, orange, blue and green. As New York is currently experiencing arctic temperatures we’re looking forward to summery hues and will relish these sun filled colors well into Fall!